The Expat’s Guide to Phnom Penh: Finding Your Perfect Neighborhood
INTRODUCTION
As Cambodia’s vibrant capital continues its remarkable transformation, Phnom Penh has emerged as Southeast Asia’s unexpected expat haven. Far from the well-trodden paths of Bangkok or Ho Chi Minh City, this city of contrasts offers Western transplants an enticing blend of affordability, authentic culture, and growing cosmopolitan comforts.
What once was considered a hardship posting has evolved into a dynamic metropolis where French colonial architecture stands alongside gleaming skyscrapers, and where traditional markets operate in the shadow of air-conditioned shopping malls. For the discerning expat, the question is no longer “Why Phnom Penh?” but rather “Which neighborhood best suits my lifestyle?”
In this comprehensive guide, we explore the capital’s most appealing districts for Western expats, from the refined riverside haunts to the leafy suburban enclaves that have become home to a growing international community.
BKK1: The Expat Epicenter
Vibe: Cosmopolitan, convenient, established Ideal for: Corporate executives, NGO workers, expat families Price point: $$$-$$$$
If Phnom Penh has an “expat bubble,” Boeung Keng Kang 1 (BKK1) would be its shimmering center. Once home to embassies and NGO headquarters, this upmarket district has evolved into the city’s premier expat enclave.
“BKK1 was the obvious choice when our firm relocated us from Singapore,” says Michael Harrington, a British investment consultant. “The convenience factor is unmatched—I can walk to my favorite coffee shops, restaurants, and my son’s international school.”
The neighborhood’s tree-lined streets house a collection of Western amenities that would make any homesick expat feel comfortable: artisanal bakeries offering proper baguettes and croissants, supermarkets stocked with imported goods, and fitness studios offering everything from pilates to CrossFit.
Housing in BKK1 skews toward the luxury end, with serviced apartments and renovated villas commanding some of the city’s highest rents. A two-bedroom apartment in a modern building with a pool and gym typically starts around $1,200 per month, while a fully renovated villa can easily fetch $3,000 or more.
BKK1 Highlights:
- Dining scene: Farm-to-table restaurants, French bistros, and upscale Khmer cuisine
- Shopping: Boutique fashion stores and BKK1 Market for imported groceries
- Community: Large expat population makes for easy social connections
- Drawbacks: Increasingly congested and losing some of its original charm to development
TONLE BASSAC: The Trendy Alternative
Vibe: Hip, architectural, up-and-coming Ideal for: Creative professionals, digital nomads, design enthusiasts Price point: $$$-$$$$
Just south of BKK1, Tonle Bassac has rapidly transformed from a sleepy residential area into one of the capital’s most fashionable districts. The neighborhood’s architectural heritage—including the iconic “White Building” and the nearby Institute of Foreign Languages—has attracted a wave of creative types and younger professionals.
“When I moved here three years ago, it was still relatively quiet,” says Emma Larsson, a Swedish graphic designer. “Now it feels like there’s a new concept store or minimalist café opening every month. It’s like the Kreuzberg of Phnom Penh.”
The area’s metamorphosis has been driven by developments like Factory Phnom Penh, a vast creative hub housed in a former industrial complex, and an influx of boutique accommodations that blend Khmer design elements with modern aesthetics.
Housing options range from luxury apartments in new developments like The Bridge and The Peak to renovated shophouses with character. Expect to pay $800-1,500 for a modern one-bedroom apartment, with premium units commanding significantly more.
Tonle Bassac Highlights:
- Culture fix: Independent art galleries, performance spaces, and design studios
- Nightlife: Craft cocktail bars and roof terraces with skyline views
- Architecture: Interesting mix of New Khmer architecture and sleek modern developments
- Drawbacks: Rapid gentrification has driven up prices considerably
RIVERSIDE (DAUN PENH): Historic Heart with Modern Pulse
Vibe: Bustling, touristy, atmospheric Ideal for: Singles, retirees, social butterflies Price point: $$-$$$
The historic heart of Phnom Penh, the Riverside area along Sisowath Quay offers perhaps the most picturesque setting in the city, with sweeping views across the confluence of the Tonle Sap and Mekong rivers.
“I specifically wanted that quintessential Southeast Asian river view,” explains Robert Montgomery, an American retiree who relocated from Florida. “My morning routine includes coffee on my balcony watching the fishing boats, followed by a walk along the promenade. It feels like living in a travel documentary.”
The area encompasses several distinct neighborhoods, including the backpacker haven around Street 172, the more upscale northern stretch near the Foreign Correspondents’ Club, and the rapidly developing Chroy Changvar peninsula across the river.
While some expats find the tourist-heavy environment and nightlife scene a bit overwhelming, others appreciate the energy and convenience. Housing runs the gamut from basic $300 studio apartments in older buildings to luxury $2,000+ units in newer developments with river views.
Riverside Highlights:
- Lifestyle: Morning tai chi along the promenade, evening drinks watching the sunset
- Dining: Everything from street food to fine dining with river views
- Location: Walking distance to key landmarks like the Royal Palace and National Museum
- Drawbacks: Tourist crowds, noise pollution, and occasional flooding concerns
RUSSIAN MARKET (TUOL TOM POUNG): The Hipster Haven
Vibe: Eclectic, authentic, evolving Ideal for: Young professionals, digital nomads, budget-conscious expats Price point: $-$$
Named after the bustling market at its center (where Russian expatriates once shopped during the Cold War era), Tuol Tom Poung has emerged as Phnom Penh’s hipster headquarters. The neighborhood offers a compelling mix of local flavor and expat comforts at more accessible prices than BKK1.
“I love the contradiction of it all,” says Canadian travel blogger Melissa Chen. “One minute I’m haggling for tropical fruits at a traditional market stall, the next I’m sipping a single-origin pour-over in a café that would feel right at home in Portland or Melbourne.”
The area’s narrow streets are increasingly lined with specialty coffee shops, craft beer bars, and homewares boutiques, yet it retains much of its authentic Cambodian character. Housing remains relatively affordable, with renovated shophouse apartments starting around $350-500 for a one-bedroom unit, though prices are steadily climbing.
Russian Market Highlights:
- Coffee culture: Some of the city’s best cafés and roasteries
- Shopping: Everything from vintage clothing to handcrafted souvenirs
- Food scene: Trendy eateries alongside authentic local cuisine
- Drawbacks: Narrow streets prone to flooding, increasingly crowded
TOUL KORK: The Family-Friendly Suburb
Vibe: Residential, spacious, developing Ideal for: Expat families, long-term residents, value seekers Price point: $$-$$$
Once considered the outer reaches of Phnom Penh, Toul Kork has developed into a comfortable residential district that appeals to expat families seeking more space and greenery than central neighborhoods can offer.
“After our second child was born, we needed more room to breathe,” explains Jessica Thompson, an Australian NGO worker. “In Toul Kork, we found a three-bedroom house with a garden for less than we were paying for our two-bedroom in BKK1. The commute is worth it.”
The neighborhood has seen significant investment in recent years, with new gated communities, international schools, and shopping centers making it increasingly self-contained. Housing options include standalone villas within compounds, spacious apartments, and traditional Cambodian houses, typically ranging from $600-1,500 depending on size and amenities.
Toul Kork Highlights:
- Family amenities: International schools, playgrounds, and kid-friendly cafés
- Space: Larger homes with gardens are attainable
- Community: Growing expat family network
- Drawbacks: Less convenient for city center access, fewer walking-distance amenities
CHROY CHANGVAR: The Next Frontier
Vibe: Developing, peaceful, riverside Ideal for: Forward-thinking investors, nature lovers, crowd avoiders Price point: $-$$$
Connected to central Phnom Penh by the Japanese Friendship Bridge, the Chroy Changvar peninsula offers a distinctly different pace of life despite being just minutes from downtown. This rapidly developing area provides river views and a more peaceful environment, with significant infrastructure improvements underway.
“I took a chance on Chroy Changvar three years ago when many expats wouldn’t consider crossing the river,” says Martin Weber, a German entrepreneur. “Now I have a spacious apartment with panoramic river views for half what I’d pay on the other side, and new amenities are opening monthly.”
The area has seen an explosion of high-rise developments along the riverfront, though much of the interior remains relatively undeveloped. Housing options range from basic $300-400 apartments to luxury units in new developments commanding $1,000 or more.
Chroy Changvar Highlights:
- Outdoor living: Riverside parks, cycling paths, and water activities
- Value: More space and amenities for your rental budget
- Potential: Rapidly improving infrastructure and facilities
- Drawbacks: Still limited dining and shopping options, dependent on bridges for city access
TAK HMAO: The Emerging Southern Hub
Vibe: Local, authentic, value-focused Ideal for: Budget-conscious expats, adventure seekers, local culture enthusiasts Price point: $-$$
Just south of Phnom Penh proper, Tak Hmao is technically its own city but increasingly functions as a suburb of the capital. With improving transport links and significantly lower housing costs, it’s attracting a small but growing number of expats willing to trade convenience for value and authenticity.
“I wanted to experience real Cambodian life, not an expat bubble,” explains David Morris, a British English teacher. “In Tak Hmao, I’m often the only foreigner in local restaurants and markets. My neighbors have become like family, teaching me Khmer and including me in community events.”
Housing is remarkably affordable, with traditional Cambodian houses available for $200-400 per month, though amenities may be basic by Western standards. New developments are gradually appearing, offering more modern accommodations.
Tak Hmao Highlights:
- Authentic experience: Immersion in typical Cambodian community life
- Value: Significantly lower cost of living
- Space: Access to nature and less urban density
- Drawbacks: Limited Western amenities, longer commutes, language barriers
PRACTICAL CONSIDERATIONS FOR EXPATS
Leasing Tips
Phnom Penh’s rental market moves quickly and often operates informally. A few essentials to know:
- Leases typically run for 6-12 months, with the first month’s rent and a one-month deposit standard
- Utilities (electricity, water, internet) are usually extra and can be surprisingly expensive
- Working with a reputable agent can save headaches, especially for first-time arrivals
- Negotiation is expected, particularly for longer lease terms
Transportation
Getting around Phnom Penh continues to evolve:
- Ride-hailing apps like PassApp and Grab have largely replaced traditional tuk-tuks
- Traffic remains challenging, though improved road infrastructure has helped
- Many expats use motorbike taxis for quick trips or lease their own scooters
- Walking is viable in central neighborhoods but challenging in rainy season
Safety Considerations
While Phnom Penh is generally safe for foreigners, standard urban precautions apply:
- Petty theft (particularly phone snatching) occurs in tourist areas
- Secure buildings with 24-hour security are worth the premium
- Most neighborhoods are safe after dark, but isolated areas should be avoided late at night
- Flooding can be a serious concern during rainy season in some areas
CONCLUSION: YOUR PHNOM PENH JOURNEY
The beauty of Phnom Penh lies in its versatility—whether you’re seeking a luxury lifestyle at Southeast Asian prices, an authentic cultural immersion, or something in between, the city offers a neighborhood to match.
As veteran expat and business owner James Wilson puts it: “Phnom Penh rewards the patient and the curious. Take time to explore different areas before committing, and remember that the neighborhood that feels right for your first six months might not be where you want to settle long-term.”
What remains consistent across all districts is the warmth of Cambodian hospitality and the sense of potential that permeates this city in transition. Whether you’re planning a six-month adventure or considering a permanent move, Phnom Penh’s distinctive neighborhoods each offer their own version of the expat experience—one that combines comfort and challenge in measures that continue to entice Westerners looking for something beyond the ordinary.
SIDEBAR: Getting Started in Phnom Penh
Essential Apps:
- PassApp/Grab (transportation)
- Nham24/Food Panda (food delivery)
- Khmer24 (classified ads, including housing)
- Telegram (widely used for local groups and networking)
Key Expat Facebook Groups:
- Phnom Penh Housing
- Expats and Locals Living in Phnom Penh
- Phnom Penh Buy & Sell
First Week Essentials:
Umbrella or rain poncho (essential during rainy season, May-October)
SIM card (easily available at the airport or any mobile shop)
USD cash (Cambodia operates on a dual-currency system)
Basic Khmer phrases (while English is widely spoken in expat areas, locals appreciate effort)
